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Normandy D-Day Battlefields

Memorial Omaha Beach

To get to the Normandy D-Day battlefields, we booked a bus trip through a well-known internet site.  The trip was 14 hours in duration, with about three and a half each way journey from Paris.  When lunch and other times are taken out, we had about four hours in Normandy.  The tour touched on most of the major D-Day sites, but only that.  We would have appreciated more time to explore for ourselves.  As a result, we would have enjoyed ourselves more had we stayed in the area and combined this with other attractions, or tours we did, such as Mont Saint Michel.

Why Did We Go?

The D-Day landings and battlefields are historically very important and seeing them first hand would give us a good understanding of what happened.  It would also allow us to see the American Memorial near Caen, where many of the soldiers are buried. 

Our holiday was on a tight timeframe, so we did not have the time to see all of Normandy and experience what it had to offer.  Instead, we decided to do the bus trip.  It would take us to the specific areas of interest for D-Day and we could see the other aspects of Normandy on a return visit.

Unfortunately, we re-discovered that bus trips can be hit and miss, missing some sites, or limiting time at them.

Caen Memorial

The Caen Memorial has film and photographic exhibits covering World War Two, with an emphasis on D-Day.  This was all very interesting and comprehensive.  We specifically liked the underground bunker that exists on the same site.  You are able to walk through it at your own pace and see the displays of how it was set up to control the German troops in the area.

D-Day Museum Flags Normandy D-Day Battlefields
D-Day Museum Flags

For anyone wanting to know the story of D-Day and the preceding years of World War 2, this is an excellent place to visit.  You should probably go here before visiting the D-Day sites in the area.

Pointe du Hoc

This is the area where high cliffs with fortified gun emplacements overlooked the invasion beaches.  American Rangers scaled these cliffs on D-Day morning and disabled them, enabling the invasion to be a success.  Several of the gun emplacements are still intact, to you get to see a genuine fortification and what the soldiers had to contend with.  More impressive is looking over the cliffs to see what they had to scale before assaulting the guns.

German Bunker Omaha Beach Normandy D-Day Battlefields
German Bunker Omaha Beach
Omaha Beach Today Normandy D-Day Battlefields
Omaha Beach Today

The bunkers can be entered, giving you the viewpoint of the defending Germans.  The surrounding area has generally been left untouched so that the effect of the allied bombardment can be seen and many bomb craters are still visible.

Omaha Beach

We walked down to Omaha Beach where we could look up to some of the cliffs overlooking the invasion beach.  In 1944 these would have been defended by German soldiers.  This perspective really drives home what the Rangers had to climb to reach the German fortifications.  The beach is very peaceful now with no signs of what happened over 70 years ago.  Some Americans in the group took samples of sand home with them.

Omaha Beach Today Normandy D-Day Battlefields
Omaha Beach Today
Canadian Memorial Juno Beach Normandy D-Day Battlefields
Canadian Memorial Juno Beach

American Cemetery and Memorial near Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer

This is the final resting place of nearly 10,000 members of the US military. The cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach, where many of them fell.  The graves of many men who were killed in the surrounding area are also here.  There is a stunning sculpture of a soldier ascending to heaven as you enter the cemetery.  This sets an excellent atmosphere for the rest of the memorial.  It is a very peaceful place, with the numerous rows of headstones set in beautiful gardens.  Many of the graves hold the body of an unknown soldier, with the inscription stating that they are known only unto God.

US War Cemetery Memorial Omaha Beach Normandy D-Day Battlefields
US War Cemetery Memorial Omaha Beach
US War Cemetery Omaha Beach Normandy D-Day Battlefields
US War Cemetery Omaha Beach

Juno Beach

Juno Beach is where a combined British and Canadian army landed.  The Canadian Memorial consists of a howitzer, and stylised sculpture of two soldiers and flags of the participating Canadian Provinces.  We walked on the sand, which was very peaceful unlike June 1944.

Memorial at Juno Beach Normandy D-Day Battlefields
Memorial at Juno Beach
Howitzer at Juno Beach Normandy D-Day Battlefields
Howitzer at Juno Beach

Arromanches Harbour

We had hope to stop here and inspect the remains of the artificial harbour, as it was on of the great planning and engineering feats of the invasion.  Unfortunately, being on a bus trip and constrained by time tables, we were running late and had to miss this part, so only saw it as we drove by.

This is one of the great drawbacks of participating in a bus trip.  An area of specific interest to you can be missed, and cut from the tour due to circumstances.  Had we been travelling by ourselves, this would have been something we would not have missed.

What Did We Think?

What we saw was excellent.  From the Memorials to the fortifications and the beaches, we gained a great understanding of the events of June 1944.  If we had more time, spending more time in the area and not travelling back to Paris in the same day would have been better.  We would have combined this with our trip to Mont Saint Michel and the Loire Valley Chateaux.

Bus trips will always be problematic, as you can’t control who you go with, or the time-table if things go wrong.

Helsinki Finland and Tallinn Estonia

Helsinki was chosen as part of our Nordic trip as a stopover before travelling on to Rovaniemi in the Arctic Circle.  Deciding to make the most of the opportunity, we stayed three nights, giving us time to see the city as well as a day trip to the historic Estonian city of Tallinn.

Getting There

The flight from Stockholm to Helsinki was by SAS.  Check in was quick and easy with self-serve check in machines and baggage deposit.  Landing at our destination, we took a taxi to our hotel.  As there were four of us, this was a cheaper option than the bus or train options.  The journey into town is quite dull and the city looked old and dreary.  Unfortunately, this proved to be an accurate first impression for the rest of our stay.

Accommodation

Our hotel the GLO Hotel Art appears to have been recently renovated.  It spans two buildings, and used an access card to open doors between the two buildings.  Reception was very friendly and helpful with advice and maps.  The hotel itself is located centrally, and was walk able to all the places we wanted to see.  Breakfast, although not as extensive as some other hotels, was still plentiful.

Helsinki Day1

Church of the Rock

To recover from the plane trip, we took a walk to the Church of the rock (Temppeliaukion kirkko).  This church has been built by excavating a hole into the surrounding rock and placing a dome over the top.  Certainly one of the more interesting churches we have seen.  The interior still has bare rock walls, lined with wood.  A very atmospheric church and worth the visit.

Church of the Rock Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Church of the Rock

Church of the Rock Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Church of the Rock

Church of the Rock Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Outside of the Church of the Rock

National Museum

The next stop on our walk was the National Museum of Finland (Suomen kansallismuseo).  The museum contains a comprehensive collection covering the history of Finland.  However, at this stage of our trip we had seen several other very good museums.  Unfortunately, we did not find this one all that interesting, especially when compared to the national museums of Denmark and Sweden.

Helsinki Museum Clocks Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Helsinki Museum Clocks

Mannerheim Statue

Not far from the museum is a statue of Finland’s national hero Mannerheim.  He is seated on a horse and the statue is near the Museum of Contemporary Art.  We saw the statue as we were passing it on the way to the Railway Square.  This area contains the railway station and major bus stop.  The square itself is surrounded by some very nice buildings.  As it was winter, not much else was happening here.

Mannerheim Statue Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Mannerheim Statue

Central Helsinki

From the railway station, we walked to the docks via Esplanadi, a park area.  It was decorated for Christmas, and very festive.  On the way, we stopped at the Havis Amanda Statue and took the obligatory photos.  This is a well-known statue of the scantily clad female.  The nearby docks were interesting, as were the views of the Uspenski Cathedral and the Office of the President of Finland.

Havis Amanda Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Havis Amanda

Havis Amanda Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Havis Amanda

Office of the President of Finland

There was a market at the docks.  We wandered around for a while and bought some snacks and a drink before heading back to our hotel.     

Suomenlinna

Suomenlinna

On our second day, we went to Helsinki’s number one attraction, the island fortress of Suomenlinna.  To get there, you need to catch the ferry from Kauppatori.  Tickets can be purchased at the dock from a ticket machine.  It was very easy to operate, with on-screen step by step instructions in many languages.  The ferry trip is only 15 minutes, with no stops on the way.

Fortress of Suomenlinna Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Fortress of Suomenlinna

Fortress of Suomenlinna Cannon Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Fortress of Suomenlinna Cannon

We spent three hours walking around the island, but were disappointed that some of the museums were closed, due to the time of year.  The fortifications themselves were quite impressive and the one museum that was open had comprehensive displays of the fortresses’ history.  There are many old cannons and defensive guns on display around the island as well as the old fortifications.

Uspenski Cathedral

On returning to Helsinki, we went to the Uspenski Cathedral.  The cathedral is outstanding, being set on a hill overlooking the city.  Unfortunately, they were undertaking renovations to the interior and it was full of scaffolding.  The iconography inside was amazing and would normally be very impressive, but much of it was obscured during our visit.

Helsinki Day2

Uspenski Cathedral Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Uspenski Cathedral

Uspenski Cathedral Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Uspenski Cathedral

Nearby is Senate Square, which was set up for a Christmas market.  The whole square was full of stalls and we spent an hour looking around them.

Helsinki Cathedral

Directly above the square is the Helsinki Cathedral.  This in impressive looking building, made even more so when you enter, as there is very little interior decoration, in keeping with its Lutheran faith.

Helsinki Cathedral Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Helsinki Cathedral

Helsinki Cathedral Altar Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Cathedral Altar

Helsinki Cathedral Organ Helsinki www.destinationsjourney.com
Helsinki Cathedral Organ

Museum of Finnish Military History

Last stop for the day was the Museum of Finnish Military History.  If you like military history, you will love this museum, as I did.  If not you will be bored as my wife was.  This is a very comprehensive museum, with a huge section on Finland’s involvement in World War 2 as well as more recent events.  I was particularly interested in the Hungarian section, detailing Hungary’s association with Finland during the second world war.  Something I knew nothing about.

Tallinn Estonia

Our final full day in Helsinki, was a day trip to the Estonian capital of Tallinn.  We caught the ferry from West Harbour Terminal 2.  It took around three and a half hours for the trip.  As it left very early in the morning, we arranged a taxi through the hotel, which was waiting promptly for us at the arranged time.  The trip was smooth and despite usually getting sea sick, my wife was fine.  The ferry has many bars and food outlets, so getting breakfast after being too early for the hotel’s breakfast was easy.

Helsinki to Tallinn

City Tour

We were met at the terminal in Tallinn, by our tour guide.  Due to the time of year, we were the only ones on the trip.  The first part was a trip around the greater city of Tallinn, with quick views from the bus of the sites.  The only place we stopped, and really the only one that interested us was the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds.  It was here that Estonians gathered to protest and sing patriot songs, leading to their independence.

Gustav Ernesaks Memorial

Tallinn Song Festival Grounds

Tallinn Old City

The guide then took us on a walking tour of the old city.  This was the real reason we had visited.  She took us to all the major places of interest and was extremely good at explaining their history and significance.  This was far better than walking around ourselves, as we would probably have gotten lost in the twisting streets.

The old city of Tallinn is a UNESCO World Heritage Listed Site.  The whole area is full of fascinating buildings, towers, city walls and churches.  It would take many days to see everything, and by then you would become jaded with the experience.  Having only one day, we saw the major sections and came away with a good appreciation of the city.

Aleksander Nevski Cathedral

We started with the Aleksander Nevski Cathedral.  This is one of the iconic buildings in Tallinn and is very impressive from the outside.  Inside, it is even better.  The icons and altar are magnificent.  Unfortunately, photographs are not permitted inside.  We then moved on to Toompea Hill.  This provides spectacular views over the old town. 

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Walking Around the Old City

The tour took us through narrow winding streets, past old city walls and buildings.  When we finished with the guide in the town square, we had several hours to look around ourselves.  We found a nice restaurant for lunch, had a few beers and explored for a while.

Old City Walls Tallinn

Tallinn Estonia

Tallinn Streets

Main Street Tallinn

St Catherine’s Passage Tallinn

Steep Tallinn Streets

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Old City Walls Tallinn

We walked back to the terminal for the ferry.  It was an easy 30-minute walk and the ferry trip back was uneventful.

What Did We Think

Helsinki was probably the least memorable part of our Nordic Trip.  There wasn’t much that interested us in the city itself.  Even Suomenlinna was not that different from other fortresses we had seen, apart from being an island.  If we could do this trip again, we would have taken another day trip to St Petersburg, as well as the one to Tallinn.  This would have left enough time to see some of the sites in Helsinki, while potentially seeing other destinations with more to offer.  Alternatively, we could have transited straight through and not stopped, as our real destination on this leg of the trip was Rovaniemi.