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It's About the Journey Not Just the Destination
Our 30 day European tour included eight countries. Travel between cities was mostly by train, although we needed plane flights for two of the legs. There was a combination of self guided and organised tours, depending on our ability to reach the destinations we wanted.
To view each destination, click on the links below.
Normandy and the D-Day Landing Battlefields
Brussels – 3 Days
Luxembourg – 1 Day
Amsterdam 3 Days
Switzerland 5 Days
4 Day Bus Tour
Quick Stop in Lichtenstein
Italy 8 Days
We spent a total of four days in Brussels, Belgium but only two of those were in the city itself. The others consisted of trips to Bruges, Ghent, Luxembourg and the World War 1 Flanders Battlefields. Apart from the magnificent old buildings, Brussels is famous for its chocolate, beer and comic books. To see and experience all these, a guided tour was booked to take us around the city centre to see all three.
As we were previously in Paris, the easiest way, and probably cheapest, was a train from Gare du Nord. We pre-booked tickets through Thalys for 43 Euros each. The seats were allocated which was great, and there was plenty of luggage room.
Finding the train at Gare du Nord in Paris was interesting. The departure time showed on the screens, but no allocated platform. This wasn’t shown until ten minutes before departure, and then only on the platform it was leaving from. We saw the crowd heading that way and followed them.
Arriving in Brussels Midi, we needed to get to Brussels Central. There were screens showing which platform to go to. As a bonus, the ticket from Paris gave us passage on the local train.
Our hotel was the Novotel Brussels Off Grand Place. It was very central, close to all the inner-city attractions and the Central Railway Station. We intended to travel to other destinations in Belgium, so being close to the railway station was important.
The staff were all very friendly and the room very comfortable. There were celebrations being held in Grand Place while we were there, but we did not hear anything and had very good nights’ sleep.
Breakfast was served in the ground floor restaurant. It had a huge selection of food and was delicious. There is a great bar, with friendly bar staff. You can order at the bar a drink outside at the hotel’s tables and watch the scenery.
The location of the hotel meant that we could walk to all the places we wanted to see in the inner-city. We felt safe everywhere we went, but took the usual precautions. Backpacks were locked with catches and we had nothing in our pockets. Due to recent events, armed soldiers are present in many parts of the city. Most people seem to take them for granted and ignore their presence.
We caught trains twice to travel to destinations in Belgium and Luxembourg. Both times we went to the ticket counter and spoke to the attendant. He was extremely helpful, advising which tickets to buy and which platform we had to go to.
All very easy and comfortable.
This was an excellent way to find the best in Belgian chocolate and beer. Our guide met us at our hotel and then took us on a walk around central Brussels to find the best Chocolate and tell the difference between good Belgian chocolate and the excellent variety. We visited numerous outlets, sampling as we went (and purchasing too). On our way we passed many of the sites we wanted to see, particularly some of the comic street art that Brussels is famous for.
After the chocolate it was time to sample beers. Mostly the excellent Trappist beers. We were taken to several different pubs, many in out-of-the-way back streets. So, not only did we get to taste some of the best beers in the world, we had the fantastic atmosphere that only a small pub can give.
After four hours (or maybe longer), we were dropped off back at our hotel feeling very happy, having had a great experience.
A walking trip around Brussels to see the sights we wanted took about an hour’s walk. Not too bad. Of course, it was a lot longer with stops to see everything and refuel on coffee and snacks. Total distance was around five kilometres. Also, not too bad.
Next door to our hotel was the Museum of Original Miniatures (MOOF Museum). A great place to re-live your childhood comic reading with Tin Tin, Asterix, the Smurfs and many more. The displays are well laid out and we spent some time wandering around. And you can take photos. Apart from Smurfs (there is a dedicated store on the ground floor), the merchandise offered in the gift shop is a bit sparse.
From the MOOF, we walked through Monts des Arts and to the Royal Palace. We admired it from the outside and took a few photos before moving on to the European Parliament. This was something that we could have skipped past. Unless you really want to see it, there isn’t much here.
We walked from the European Parliament to the St Michael and St Gudula Cathedral. It looks amazing from the outside and inside is even better. The stained-glass windows are superb and the icons of the saints are worth the visit in themselves.
Les Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert was the first covered shopping arcade in Europe. It is filled with restaurants and luxury shops. We wandered through, doing window shopping. The chocolate shop in here was one of our stops on the beer and chocolate tour we took later. The roof is amazing. Even if you don’t want to buy anything or just browse, go inside to look at the glass ceiling.
Final stop for the day was Grand Place. An event was being prepared, so the centre of the square was barricaded off. This made it seem more crowded than normal as everyone was pressed into a smaller space. The guild houses that line the square are fabulous. Each one is unique and you can spend hours looking at the detail in each one. We were told that each guild continually tried to outdo its rivals, which why they are so extravagant.
Part of the Chocolate and Beer Tour took us pas the Mannekin Pis. This is a small bronze statue of a small boy urinating. One of the must-see attractions in Brussels, but not that interesting. Only worth seeing to tick it off your list. Nearby is some great street art and murals. These are all over Brussels. Much of it is comic book derived and a whole day could be spent chasing them all down.
This was a full day trip from Brussels. Leaving at 9AM and returning around 10PM. Our first stop was the German Military Cemetery of Vladslo, a peaceful area that features the famous sculpture by Käthe Kollwitz, Grieving Parents.
Over 25,000 German soldiers are buried here. It started drizzling while we were there, adding to the sombre atmosphere.
Our second stop was at Tyne Cot Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery where 35,000 Commonwealth soldiers are buried. The Cemetery also contains a Memorial to the Missing, naming over 33,000 officers and men whose remains were never found. The whole area is very peaceful and everyone there acted with the respect it deserved. It was great to see many school parties there, learning about the events over 100 years ago and their consequences.
We next went to Essex Farm Field Hospital to view the remains of the bunkers there and the graves of those who died in the area. Then we went to the Memorial to the Australian Fifth Division. This was especially significant as this was the one hundredth anniversary of the battle of Polygon Wood.
The final stop before going to Ypres, was the Hill 60 area. It was here that Australian miners constructed tunnels under the German positions and then filled them with explosives, causing great devastation. Several of the craters are still visible today in the area, giving an idea of what force was unleashed.
The highlight of the tour was Ypres and the Last Post. We started with a tour around the Flanders’ Fields Museum. The museum shows the war from the human perspective as well as showing the historical military detail. A very interesting place and worth the visit.
We had a short time to ourselves to have dinner at one of the many restaurants in the city-centre and then we went to the for the Last Post. This was a very sombre moment. The ceremony is simple and quite short and it was great to see how well it was attended. Many school children were also there, some laying wreaths, and on this occasion a choir sang.
Although a very long day, the experience was memorable. The tour guide provided a huge amount of in-depth knowledge throughout the day. Being able to see the innumerable graves in the cemeteries gave us an insight into the huge sacrifices made.
The train runs from Brussels Central to Brugge, via Ghent. We purchased tickets on the morning of travel, checking with the staff at the ticket counter that we could on/off at Ghent. We could and it didn’t matter if it was on the outward or return journey.
From the train station we walked into Brugge. This was an easy 20 minutes. Along the way, you get to see why the town is one of the most famous in Belgium. You pass though streets filled with beautiful old buildings.
First place of interest was the Church of Our Lady, Brugge. It has the sculpture Madona & Child by Michelangelo. There is a nominal admittance fee to get in. When you do visit, remember it is a functioning place of worship, so be quiet and act with respect.
Nearby is the Holy Saviour Cathedral (Sint-Salvatorskathedraal). The tower is one of the highest buildings in Brugge and is easily identifiable. Go inside for a quick look at the stain glass windows.
The canals are a must see when you visit. We took a cruise that took around 30 minutes. We had a running commentary from the driver and got the best views. The town looks totally different from the water and many of the buildings look even better.
The belfry is the highest point in Brugge. For a small cost (2 Euros) you can climb to the top for magnificent views over the town and surrounding countryside. When we visited, the bells were playing hits from the 1960s and 70s. Absolutely fantastic.
Just around from the belfry is the Market Square. The market wasn’t on the day we visited, but the square is surrounded by magnificent old buildings and there are many places there to eat and drink.
The Basilica of the Holy Blood was our last stop. This little church, is highly decorated inside and out. It has a vial of blood, reputed to have been brought back from the crusades and claimed to be that of Jesus Christ.
Unlike Brugge, Ghent has developed a great deal since it was established and is now one of the bigger towns in Belgium. The old town centre remains, but is surrounded by modern development, most of which is not very pretty. We took a bus from the railway station into the city. The journey was around 20 minutes and passed through suburbs that could be from any modern western city.
The centre of town has also been affected by modernisation as well. Overhead electric power for the trams are everywhere and greatly diminish the beauty of the old buildings. It is possible to get a few good views without them in the way, but they seem to be everywhere. Many of the buildings also had mobile coffee and snack vans outside. Great if you want a quick drink, but it does nothing for the view.
Our first stop was the magnificent St. Bavo’s Cathedral (Sint-Baafskathedraal). The vaulted ceilings and columns really must be seen. Don’t forget the altar setting, of the Adoration of the Lamb. There is a replica on display, but the original is kept in a separate room, where you pay to see it.
Another great religious building is Saint Nicholas Church. This is a beautiful building, inside and out. Make sure to walk around the outside to see the view from the rear. You can also get some powerline free shots from here.
As in Brugge, one of the great attractions of Ghent, is the city centre’s old buildings. There are many of them and as you walk around you get to experience and appreciate them.
Right in the centre of town is Gravensteen Castle. Great views from the top and some good displays of weapons, armour and torture devices (if you’re into that).
We loved Belgium and particularly Brussels and Brugge and especially the beer and chocolates. We also had a great time in Brugge. If you must choose between Brugge and Ghent, we would recommend Brugge, as it is less developed and has a much more relaxed atmosphere. The trip to the World War 1 Flanders Battlefields was a memorable experience that we are pleased we did.
So, overall Belgium is a fantastic country, with plenty to do locally and within an easy day’s travel to other destinations.[ctct form=”41″]
To get to the Normandy D-Day battlefields, we booked a bus trip through a well-known internet site. The trip was 14 hours in duration, with about three and a half each way journey from Paris. When lunch and other times are taken out, we had about four hours in Normandy. The tour touched on most of the major D-Day sites, but only that. We would have appreciated more time to explore for ourselves. As a result, we would have enjoyed ourselves more had we stayed in the area and combined this with other attractions, or tours we did, such as Mont Saint Michel.
The D-Day landings and battlefields are historically very important and seeing them first hand would give us a good understanding of what happened. It would also allow us to see the American Memorial near Caen, where many of the soldiers are buried.
Our holiday was on a tight timeframe, so we did not have the time to see all of Normandy and experience what it had to offer. Instead, we decided to do the bus trip. It would take us to the specific areas of interest for D-Day and we could see the other aspects of Normandy on a return visit.
Unfortunately, we re-discovered that bus trips can be hit and miss, missing some sites, or limiting time at them.
The Caen Memorial has film and photographic exhibits covering World War Two, with an emphasis on D-Day. This was all very interesting and comprehensive. We specifically liked the underground bunker that exists on the same site. You are able to walk through it at your own pace and see the displays of how it was set up to control the German troops in the area.
For anyone wanting to know the story of D-Day and the preceding years of World War 2, this is an excellent place to visit. You should probably go here before visiting the D-Day sites in the area.
This is the area where high cliffs with fortified gun emplacements overlooked the invasion beaches. American Rangers scaled these cliffs on D-Day morning and disabled them, enabling the invasion to be a success. Several of the gun emplacements are still intact, to you get to see a genuine fortification and what the soldiers had to contend with. More impressive is looking over the cliffs to see what they had to scale before assaulting the guns.
The bunkers can be entered, giving you the viewpoint of the defending Germans. The surrounding area has generally been left untouched so that the effect of the allied bombardment can be seen and many bomb craters are still visible.
We walked down to Omaha Beach where we could look up to some of the cliffs overlooking the invasion beach. In 1944 these would have been defended by German soldiers. This perspective really drives home what the Rangers had to climb to reach the German fortifications. The beach is very peaceful now with no signs of what happened over 70 years ago. Some Americans in the group took samples of sand home with them.
This is the final resting place of nearly 10,000 members of the US military. The cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach, where many of them fell. The graves of many men who were killed in the surrounding area are also here. There is a stunning sculpture of a soldier ascending to heaven as you enter the cemetery. This sets an excellent atmosphere for the rest of the memorial. It is a very peaceful place, with the numerous rows of headstones set in beautiful gardens. Many of the graves hold the body of an unknown soldier, with the inscription stating that they are known only unto God.
Juno Beach is where a combined British and Canadian army landed. The Canadian Memorial consists of a howitzer, and stylised sculpture of two soldiers and flags of the participating Canadian Provinces. We walked on the sand, which was very peaceful unlike June 1944.
We had hope to stop here and inspect the remains of the artificial harbour, as it was on of the great planning and engineering feats of the invasion. Unfortunately, being on a bus trip and constrained by time tables, we were running late and had to miss this part, so only saw it as we drove by.
This is one of the great drawbacks of participating in a bus trip. An area of specific interest to you can be missed, and cut from the tour due to circumstances. Had we been travelling by ourselves, this would have been something we would not have missed.
What we saw was excellent. From the Memorials to the fortifications and the beaches, we gained a great understanding of the events of June 1944. If we had more time, spending more time in the area and not travelling back to Paris in the same day would have been better. We would have combined this with our trip to Mont Saint Michel and the Loire Valley Chateaux.
Bus trips will always be problematic, as you can’t control who you go with, or the time-table if things go wrong.