Located on the Bicentenial Way in Forster New South Wales, Bennetts Head Lookout is a popular place for whale watching during migration season. We were lucky and saw a few swimming south, but they were too far out to get a good look. Several tour operators provide whale watching trips locally, with one of the operators using the lookout to spot whales and direct the boats.
Getting There
Parking is available next to the main lookout on Bennetts Head Road. Alternately, the lookout would make a great rest stop if you were walking the Bicentennial Track.
The Lookout
As well as whales the lookout gives great views down the coast and over the ocean. As well as the main viewing platform near the road, several others are located a little further along the Bicentennial Track only a few minutes walk away. Some whale watchers had been there for several hours and mentioned that whales had swum in closer to the shore earlier. Unfortunately during our visit, they decided to stay out at sea.
This is a great lookout, especially during the whale migration when newly born calves swim south with the adults to the Antarctic.
View from the LookoutView of the cliffs from the lookoutMemorial to those who lost their lives off Cape Hawke
Named after First Lord of the Admiralty, Edward Hawke by Captain Cook (a Lieutenant at the time), the Cape Hawke Lookout Track is on the northern end of the Booti Booti National Park. With only a 10-minute drive to travel the 11km from the centre of Forster, it was easy to find. Parking is available in a small carpark at the start of the track, but this will fill up quickly on a busy day. From here it’s uphill for 500m with 420 steps to the top. Don’t be put off by the climb, as there is a bench seat provided to sit and rest on before tackling the rest of the climb.
Maintained by NSW National Parks and Wildlife, the track was in very good condition during our visit. Trees have regrown around the 8m tower, but the view is still amazing and worth the climb.
The area is covered with littoral rain forest that is quite dense and very shady on a hot day. Although we heard animals moving through the vegetation, all we saw were some brush turkeys.
The walk downhill back to the car was much easier than going uphill.
Start of the track uphillMemorial to James Cook naming Cape Hawke on 12 May 1770The lookout towerThe view from the top of the lookout towerView of Forster from the lookout tower
The walk from Manly to North Head takes you past some beautiful beaches with views over the coast, through coastal scrub and passes old fortifications. Finally ending at the entrance to Sydney Harbour, it has spectacular views of the city.
Getting There
The easiest way to get to Manly is to take the Manly ferry from Circular Quay. If you’re new to Sydney, this is an attraction in itself, because the Sydney Harbour ferries form an important part of the local public transport. During the ferry ride, you get some brilliant views of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge as well as all the other boat traffic on the water.
Manly Ferry CollaroyOpera House From the Manly Ferry
Start of the Walk
Catching the Manly Ferry from Circular Quay, we arrived at Manly Wharf at 9:30 am. We planned our walk to take us along the shore to Shelly Beach where we would follow a track to the Barracks Precinct. Not only would this give us views over the coast but take us past some old fortifications and gun emplacements.
From the Manly wharf, we walked down The Corso, which is a pedestrian mall leading to the beach.
Manly Beach
One of the most popular Sydney beaches, Manly Beach is a great place for a swim or relaxing on the sand. We bought a coffee at a kiosk near the south end of the beach before starting the walk.
Manly Beach
Manly to Shelly Beach
Starting at the south end of Manly Beach, the path follows the coastline, which is rocky until you reach Shelly Beach. There are plenty of places with places to look up and down the coast and back to Manly, giving you some amazing views.
Along the way look out for small metal sculptures of local wildlife. These have been placed on the rocks next to the path.
About halfway to Shelly Beach, Fairy Bower Pool is a protected ocean pool where you can swim. The pool is also decorated with a sculpture of two fairies.
Fairy Bower Sea PoolFairy StatuesSculpture of an octopus near Shelly BeachSculpture of an bandicoot near Shelly BeachFairey Penguin Sculpture near Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach is a secluded and serene crescent-shaped beach surrounded by nice shady trees. As well as a grassed area to relax on it has a kiosk where you can buy refreshments before continuing the walk.
From Shelly Beach, the track goes uphill to head along the cliffs to the south.
Shelly Beach
Shelly Headland Lookout
Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the ocean, this Shelly Headland Lookout provides an ideal spot for photographers because of the wonderful views along the coast. During the whale migration season, it’s also an ideal point to watch them swimming past.
Coastal view looking north back to Manly
Shelly Beach to the Barracks Precinct
After the flat walk from Manly the track becomes rougher and steeper. From here the track climbs uphill to reach the cliff tops. Winding through the coastal vegetation, it is not as busy as the first section because it is a more difficult walk. We loved this section, as the walk through the bush was much more peaceful.
At the top of the cliffs, old fortifications dating from the Second World War and earlier can be seen. The track even goes through one of the old walls built to defend the area.
The track south of Shelly BeachOld fortification wall at North Head
Barracks Precinct
The Barracks Precinct at North Head is a historically significant site that served as a military base from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century. It played a crucial role in the defence of Sydney Harbor and housed various military units over the years.
The Barracks Precinct has well-preserved sandstone buildings, which showcase the architectural style of the time. It includes several barracks, officers’ quarters, mess halls, and maintenance buildings. These structures provide a glimpse into the daily lives of soldiers stationed at North Head.
Today, the Barracks Precinct has been repurposed as a heritage site and is open to the public for exploration. Visitors can wander through the historic buildings, learn about the site’s military history through information boards which are dotted around the area.
In this area and continuing to North Head, the walking tracks are generally well paved and often consists of boardwalks or paved roads. When we visited, the banksias were in flower adding a touch of colour to the walk.
Main barracks building and parade groundBanksia in flowerBanksia in Flower
Fortifications
Many of the original fortifications were dismantled and the guns sold for scrap when they were no longer needed. Fortunately, some are still in place so that visitors can see them. Several large gun emplacements are open to the public, but when we visited others were being repaired.
A great way to get a feel for the area’s past is to take the underground tunnels tour. We did this several years ago and highly recommend it. You walk through the tunnels and underground sections of the fortifications as well as getting into areas the general public cannot access.
Old FortificationsOld Fortification undergoing restoration9.2 Inch Gun
Memorial Walk
Winding through the coastal vegetation, the Memorial Walk commemorates Australia’s military heritage. Not only are there great sandstone memorials but the path is inlaid with bricks commemorating individuals or military units.
Memorial WalkMemorial for Australian Peacekeeping Operations
Fairfax Lookout
The end of our walk took us to Fairfax Lookout with its stunning views of Sydney and Sydney Harbour. The site was named after Sir James Fairfax, a prominent Australian businessman and philanthropist.
View of Sydney and the Harbour from Fairfax Lookout
Other Places to See in North Head
If you have time, Q Station, the old Sydney Quarantine Station is worth a visit. We did a guided tour here some time ago, which took us through the history of the site and most of its buildings. The old quarantine station cemetery is also a great place to see.
Getting Back
After finishing our walk, we decided to catch the bus back to the wharf as it stops right outside. Alternatively, you could walk back via Q Station. We had an excellent tour there a few years ago and highly recommend a visit.
