Located on the northern side of Sydney Harbour, Balls Head Reserve is a scenic reserve offering breathtaking views of the harbour city and bridge. Winding tracks through regenerated native bushland let you experience the Australian bush without leaving Sydney.
History
The reserve was named after Henry Lidgbird Ball, who was a Royal Navy officer and the captain of HMS Supply during the First Fleet’s arrival in 1788.
During the 19th century, the area was utilized for quarrying and later for shipbuilding purposes. The remnants of the quarrying activity are still visible within the reserve. To the north of the reserve, Balls Head Coal Loader was an important export point for coal. The coal wharf and load out tunnels are still present and make a great addition to a visit to the area.
Getting there
Getting to Balls Head Reserve is relatively straightforward. We used the train and walked through Carradah Park and Balls Head Coal Loader before going to the reserve.
By public transport: Take a train to Waverton station and then enjoy a pleasant 15-20 minute walk through the picturesque streets of Waverton to reach the reserve. Alternately, walk through Carradah Park for more views of the harbour and see the rehabilitated BP site.
By car: It’s recommended to arrive early to secure a spot because there is limited street parking available.
Remember to check the current public transport schedules and any restrictions in place before planning your visit.
Balls Head Reserve
We entered the reserve through the tunnels from the old coal loader. This is a great way to enter the reserves because you walk from an industrial area to a rehabilitated bush environment. Although the tunnel is well lit the walkway is rough, so watch your footing.
Following the narrow track around the headland, we had some amazing views of the harbour. Several lookout provide great places to relax and take in the views. One even has a weather shelter carved from a large boulder. We brought some snacks and drinks, so this was a great place to stop and refuel while admiring the views. We were lucky to be there when one of the sailing ships went past, returning from one of its day trips.
The track varies from a wide shared roadway to narrow dirt tracks, so it’s a good idea to wear good shoes if you want to see the whole area. Several picnic spots with tables benches and toilets make it a great place to spend a few relaxing hours.
Coal Loading TunnelCoal Loading Tunnel Retaining WallWalking TrackOld Industrial RemainsShelter area at one of the lookoutsSydney Harbour BridgeView of Sydney, The Harbour and a sailing shipSailing ship on Sydney Harbour
The walk from Manly to North Head takes you past some beautiful beaches with views over the coast, through coastal scrub and passes old fortifications. Finally ending at the entrance to Sydney Harbour, it has spectacular views of the city.
Getting There
The easiest way to get to Manly is to take the Manly ferry from Circular Quay. If you’re new to Sydney, this is an attraction in itself, because the Sydney Harbour ferries form an important part of the local public transport. During the ferry ride, you get some brilliant views of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge as well as all the other boat traffic on the water.
Manly Ferry CollaroyOpera House From the Manly Ferry
Start of the Walk
Catching the Manly Ferry from Circular Quay, we arrived at Manly Wharf at 9:30 am. We planned our walk to take us along the shore to Shelly Beach where we would follow a track to the Barracks Precinct. Not only would this give us views over the coast but take us past some old fortifications and gun emplacements.
From the Manly wharf, we walked down The Corso, which is a pedestrian mall leading to the beach.
Manly Beach
One of the most popular Sydney beaches, Manly Beach is a great place for a swim or relaxing on the sand. We bought a coffee at a kiosk near the south end of the beach before starting the walk.
Manly Beach
Manly to Shelly Beach
Starting at the south end of Manly Beach, the path follows the coastline, which is rocky until you reach Shelly Beach. There are plenty of places with places to look up and down the coast and back to Manly, giving you some amazing views.
Along the way look out for small metal sculptures of local wildlife. These have been placed on the rocks next to the path.
About halfway to Shelly Beach, Fairy Bower Pool is a protected ocean pool where you can swim. The pool is also decorated with a sculpture of two fairies.
Fairy Bower Sea PoolFairy StatuesSculpture of an octopus near Shelly BeachSculpture of an bandicoot near Shelly BeachFairey Penguin Sculpture near Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach is a secluded and serene crescent-shaped beach surrounded by nice shady trees. As well as a grassed area to relax on it has a kiosk where you can buy refreshments before continuing the walk.
From Shelly Beach, the track goes uphill to head along the cliffs to the south.
Shelly Beach
Shelly Headland Lookout
Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the ocean, this Shelly Headland Lookout provides an ideal spot for photographers because of the wonderful views along the coast. During the whale migration season, it’s also an ideal point to watch them swimming past.
Coastal view looking north back to Manly
Shelly Beach to the Barracks Precinct
After the flat walk from Manly the track becomes rougher and steeper. From here the track climbs uphill to reach the cliff tops. Winding through the coastal vegetation, it is not as busy as the first section because it is a more difficult walk. We loved this section, as the walk through the bush was much more peaceful.
At the top of the cliffs, old fortifications dating from the Second World War and earlier can be seen. The track even goes through one of the old walls built to defend the area.
The track south of Shelly BeachOld fortification wall at North Head
Barracks Precinct
The Barracks Precinct at North Head is a historically significant site that served as a military base from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century. It played a crucial role in the defence of Sydney Harbor and housed various military units over the years.
The Barracks Precinct has well-preserved sandstone buildings, which showcase the architectural style of the time. It includes several barracks, officers’ quarters, mess halls, and maintenance buildings. These structures provide a glimpse into the daily lives of soldiers stationed at North Head.
Today, the Barracks Precinct has been repurposed as a heritage site and is open to the public for exploration. Visitors can wander through the historic buildings, learn about the site’s military history through information boards which are dotted around the area.
In this area and continuing to North Head, the walking tracks are generally well paved and often consists of boardwalks or paved roads. When we visited, the banksias were in flower adding a touch of colour to the walk.
Main barracks building and parade groundBanksia in flowerBanksia in Flower
Fortifications
Many of the original fortifications were dismantled and the guns sold for scrap when they were no longer needed. Fortunately, some are still in place so that visitors can see them. Several large gun emplacements are open to the public, but when we visited others were being repaired.
A great way to get a feel for the area’s past is to take the underground tunnels tour. We did this several years ago and highly recommend it. You walk through the tunnels and underground sections of the fortifications as well as getting into areas the general public cannot access.
Old FortificationsOld Fortification undergoing restoration9.2 Inch Gun
Memorial Walk
Winding through the coastal vegetation, the Memorial Walk commemorates Australia’s military heritage. Not only are there great sandstone memorials but the path is inlaid with bricks commemorating individuals or military units.
Memorial WalkMemorial for Australian Peacekeeping Operations
Fairfax Lookout
The end of our walk took us to Fairfax Lookout with its stunning views of Sydney and Sydney Harbour. The site was named after Sir James Fairfax, a prominent Australian businessman and philanthropist.
View of Sydney and the Harbour from Fairfax Lookout
Other Places to See in North Head
If you have time, Q Station, the old Sydney Quarantine Station is worth a visit. We did a guided tour here some time ago, which took us through the history of the site and most of its buildings. The old quarantine station cemetery is also a great place to see.
Getting Back
After finishing our walk, we decided to catch the bus back to the wharf as it stops right outside. Alternatively, you could walk back via Q Station. We had an excellent tour there a few years ago and highly recommend a visit.
Located in the Kuring-gai Chase National Park, access to the Bobbin Head Mangrove Boardwalk will cost $12.00 per car for a day. This will cover you for any other parts of the National Park you visit on that day too. The fee allows you to use the picnic areas and walking tracks in the area, which are well maintained by NSW Parks and Wildlife. Payment can be made at the entry gate as you drive in.
Our first stop was Empire Marina, where the still morning are provided amazing reflections on the water of the boats and surrounding forest. After this we drove to the southern end of the Bobbin Head picnic area, where the boardwalk starts.
View from Empire Marina to the picnic groundsBoats at Empire Marina Bobbin Head
The Boardwalk
The boardwalk meanders through the mangroves and there are information signs to help you learn more about the environment and plenty of opportunities to see the mangroves and crabs up close. Because it was low tide when we went, we didn’t see any crabs, only the openings to their burrows.
The boardwalk is 552 meters long and takes about 15 minutes to complete. Along the way we had more amazing reflections in Cockle Creek as well as views of the mangroves.
The track continues into the forest as Gibberagong Track, which we followed for a short distance to get more views over the creek.
This was a great little walk with amazing views. We were the only ones there during our visit early on a winter morning, but in summer it is very busy.
Suspension bridge through the mangrovesSuspension bridge through the mangrovesMetal sculpture of Cunningham’s SkinkCowan CreekThe boardwalk through the mangrovesEroded sandstoneTrees growing in the sandstone on the river bankBrush TurkeyStone steps at the end of the boardwalkView over Cowan Creek
