Category: Scandinavia

  • Stockholm Sweden

    Stockholm Sweden

    We arrived in Stockholm after a five-hour train trip from Oslo.  The trip was uneventful, and as WIFI was provided, wasn’t too boring.  The train had a café car, where you could buy food and drinks, so overall a pleasant journey that went surprisingly quickly.

    On arrival at Stockholm Station, we caught a taxi to our hotel in Gamla Stan.  This is the old part of town in Stockholm.  We chose it as it has many attractions nearby, as well as the benefits of being in Gamla Stan itself, such as the atmosphere and restaurants. 

    Our accommodation was the First Hotel Reisen, on the waterfront.  It is an older hotel, but the rooms were clean and warm and the location was excellent.  By the time we had checked in it was gone five in the afternoon and dark outside.  We ventured out for a walk, and went towards the city centre. 

    In Berzelii Park, we found some amazing Christmas decorations.  There was a huge display of moose sculptures lit up for Christmas.  Many of the other streets were also decorated for the festive season, making the whole atmosphere very enjoyable. 

    Stockholm
    Christmas Moose Decoration in a Stockholm Park
    Stockholm
    Christmas Decorations in a Stockholm Street

    After walking around for a few hours and finding something to eat at the many restaurants available, we headed back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.

    Breakfast the next morning was served on the ground floor of the hotel.  There was more than enough variety to satisfy us, and we all had a huge meal.  Ready to take on the day, we rugged up in warm clothes and headed out.

    Stockholm Day 1

    ABBA Museum

    Our first stop was the ABBA museum.  There was an option to take public transport, but we decided that a walk would also give us the opportunity to see Stockholm’s streets and waterfront better.  Tickets for the museum had been pre-booked in Australia before we left.  This should have meant we just walked up to the check in machines and then started our tour.  However, we had also pre-booked audio guides and had to go back to the counter to pick these up, so probably didn’t save any time.  The museum is a cashless shop, so all purchases must be made with credit cards.  We knew this so it wasn’t a problem, but we heard some other people complaining about it.

    Stockholm
    The ABBA Museum

    The tour is self-paced and takes you through the full history of ABBA the group as well as the individuals.  If you are an ABBA fan, this is a must see when in Stockholm.  As well as displays, there are interactive areas, where you can get up on stage and dance and sing with a holographic ABBA.  All of this is recorded for you to take with you when you leave.

    Stockholm
    ABBA

    The gift shop is quite extensive, with anything ABBA for sale.

    Vasa Museum

    Not far from the ABBA Museum is the famous Vasa museum.  Another must see attraction.   A purpose-built building fully encloses the preserved ship.  It is not until you go inside that you realise just how big the ship is and how amazing its recovery and preservation is.  As well as the ship itself, there is a full description of the recovery process as well as many artifacts from the wreck site.  We could get quite close to the ship and take some good photos, but in peak season, I would imagine that it would be very crowded.

    Stockholm
    The Vasa Sailing Ship

    Swedish History Museum

    From Vasa, we walked to the Swedish History Museum.  This contains one of the world’s largest collections of Viking artefacts and medieval art.  Our first stop here was the café for lunch.  There was quite a reasonable range of food, and all of us managed to find something we liked.  After re-fuelling, we spent several hours walking around the fantastic displays.  The Viking section was particularly impressive.  If you are interested in the spread of Christianity in the early middle ages, there is a huge display of early Christian art, ranging from frescos to altars.

    Stockholm
    Rune Stone at the Historical Museum
    Stockholm
    Viking Axe at the Historical Museum
    Stockholm
    Viking Helmet at the Historical Museum

    The gold room in the museum contains some of Sweden’s greatest treasures.  There is display after display of Viking crafted gold jewelry and objects.  It was simply magnificent.

    Stockholm
    Viking Gold at the Historical Museum

    Gamla Stan

    After dropping souvenirs off at the hotel, we walked around Gamla Stan in the evening.  There was a huge variety of places to eat and after a meal, we spent some time taking in the old narrow streets and buildings before returning to our hotel.  As it was December, everything was very festive, with a Christmas market set up in one of the squares.

    Stockholm
    Gamla Stan Stockholm

    The next day, after another great breakfast at the First Hotel Reisen, we set off to explore Gamla Stan in the daylight.  Only a few minutes from our accommodation, was the Royal Palace, but being a Monday was closed, so we only had a look around the outside, meaning to look inside on Tuesday.  The next stop was Stockholm’s Cathedral.  It is quite small by international standards, but is still very nice inside and worth the visit.  Check out the statue of St George and the Dragon.

    Stockholm
    The Royal Palace Stockholm
    Stockholm
    Stockholm Cathedral Altar
    Stockholm
    Inside Stockholm Cathedral
    Stockholm
    Stockholm Cathedral

    Behind the Cathedral, and opposite the palace is a small Finnish Church.  Behind the church is Jarnpojken, a tiny but cute statue.  People rub it for good luck and leave a small donation.

    Stockholm
    Jarnpojken in Gamla Stan Stockholm

    We spent most of the morning wandering around the old twisting streets and investigating the numerous shops there.

    Cruise the Waterways

    In the afternoon, we went on a site seeing cruise around Stockholm’s waterways.  They start from the wharf in front of Berzelii Park.  This would be a fantastic cruise in summer, but even in winter gave a great view of the city from a different perspective.  The boat wasn’t very full, so there were plenty of spare seats and no one was crowded.

    Coin Museum

    There is a coin museum in Gamla Stan.  We noticed it as we looked for somewhere to have dinner.  We were not expecting much, but were very surprised how interesting it was, tracing the history of Swedish currency through the ages.

    Stockholm
    Coin Museum Gamla Stan Stockholm

    Sigtuna and Uppsala

    For our final full day in Sweden, we had pre-booked a guided tour to Sigtuna and Uppsala.  We could probably have done this ourselves, but were not confident driving on the right side of the road in icy conditions, so took the easy way out.  It is possible to get public transport to Uppsala, but to see Sigtuna as well in the same day was not possible.

    Stockholm to Uppsala

    Sigtuna, founded in 980 is the oldest town in Sweden.  It has a very picturesque main street, with traditional wooden buildings.  We spent a while walking around the town and had a nice hot chocolate in one of the cafes.  The original town hall is also there, as well as the ruins of St Olaf’s church.  We visited because of its historical importance and to see the old main street and buildings.

    Sigtuna Radhus
    Sigtuna Radhus
    Sigtuna Main Street
    Sigtuna Main Street

    Next stop was Gamla Uppsala, to see the Viking burial mounds.  Probably not as interesting as we expected.  Just several large mounds.  If the museum had been open it might have been more interesting, but it was closed.

    Viking Burial Mounds at Gamla Uppsala
    Viking Burial Mounds at Gamla Uppsala

    In Uppsala itself, we went to the Cathedral, the tallest in the Nordic countries.  It is a very impressive building from the outside and stunning inside.  The huge ceilings and the restored medieval frescoes are worth seeing.

    Uppsala Cathedral
    Uppsala Cathedral
    Uppsala Cathedral
    Uppsala Cathedral

    Royal Palace

    On our return to Stockholm, we were just in time to enter the Royal Palace before it closed for the night.  As you expect, the rooms are all magnificent and full of painting and ornate furniture.  Make sure you go to the crown jewels on display.  More stunning jewelry.

    Royal Palace Stockholm
    Royal Palace Stockholm
    Royal Palace Stockholm
    Royal Palace Stockholm

    Nobel Museum

    After dinner, we went to the Nobel museum.  This was probably the most disappointing attraction we visited.  We found it very uninspiring and didn’t spend much time there.  If you are really into Nobel history and want to read through dry histories of the winners, you may find in interesting.

    What Did We Think?

    So what did we think of Stockholm?  Loved the history, especially Gamla Stan and the museums.  We would not go to Uppsala or Sigtuna again, given our short time frame and would have preferred more time in Stockholm.

     

     

     

  • Oslo Norway

    Oslo Norway

    Oslo Norway

    Arriving in Oslo at the Central Train Station at 3:00PM, we made our way to our hotel.  It was just across the road from the station, only a few minutes’ walk.  Very handy, as we were departing by train too.  The train station is very large and modern.  We found it easy to find our way around.

    The Clarion Hotel Royal Christiania check in was quick and easy and we liked the rooms.  Nice and comfortable and importantly warm.

    Tourist Information Bureau

    After dropping our bags off and having a quick freshen up, we headed out to find the local Tourist Information Bureau.  It is located outside the train station and is well sign posted and easy to find.  The staff were very friendly and helpful.  As the bus and tram public transport system is very efficient, we asked about getting passes for the next two days.  They sell the passes there and showed us the best places to catch buses and which numbers to get for the places we intended going to.

    Oslo Central Train Station

    Outside the Visitor Centre and the Train Station is a large open public space.  We took pictures of the Tiger Statue and Thor’s Hammer that are located there.  During our visit the latest Star Wars movie was being released, so there was a life-sized model of a crashed Tie Fighter as well.  We were very lucky and got some good photos while there were not too many crowds around.

    Tiger - Oslo Railway Station
    Tiger – Oslo Railway Station
    Star Wars Tie Fighter - Oslo Railway Station
    Star Wars Tie Fighter – Oslo Railway Station
    Mjölnir Thor's Hammer - Oslo
    Mjölnir Thor’s Hammer – Oslo

    Karl Johans Gate

    Opposite the train station is Karl Johans Gate, the main shopping street in Oslo.  Most of the street is a pedestrian mall, except for the cross roads, so be careful when you cross.  The road goes past the cathedral and the parliament building, but we only had a quick look, as we planned to have a better look in two days’ time.

    There were large crowds at the Grand Hotel, as the Nobel Peace Prize was being awarded.  The security was visible but not over the top.  The one thing that we found really disturbing was the number of people begging on the streets.  This would be the same in other cities we were to visit as well.

    Viking Ship Museum

    On the first full day in Oslo, we caught a number 30 bus to the Bygdøy Peninsular.  Some of Oslo’s best museums are located here and we planned to see several of them if time permitted.  We started at the Viking Ship Museum.  The bus stopped right outside, and we arrived just before opening time.  This enabled us to see all the exhibits without crowds.  The three 9th century ships on display are magnificent and the museum really should be a must see for anyone interested in Viking history.

    Viking Ship Museum
    Viking Ship Museum
    Viking Ship Museum
    Viking Ship Museum
    Viking Ship Museum Oslo
    Oslo Viking Ship Museum

    Norwegian Folk Museum

    A short walk back up the road is the huge open air Norwegian Folk Museum.  Buildings of historical importance from all over Norway have been located here for preservation.  We loved the stave church and the farming village, all set out as they used to be.  It would be possible to spend a whole day here if you wanted to see everything that is available, but we were time limited, so stuck to the plan to see the attractions that interested us the most.  Then we headed in from the cold and had a hot chocolate in the café.

    The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History Oslo
    The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History
    Norsk Folkemuseum
    The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History Oslo
    Stave Church – The Norsk Folkemuseum
    Stave Church - The Norsk Folkemuseum
    Stave Church – The Norsk Folkemuseum

    Kon-Tiki Museum

    We caught the bus outside the museum to the Fram Museum a bit further along the road.  Also located here are the Kon-Tiki and Maritime Museums.  If you buy multi-entry tickets, you get a 10% discount.  We started with the Kon-Tiki.  It gives a full history of Thor Heyerdahl’s adventures and has many artefacts from Thor Heyerdahl’s life, most importantly the Kon-Tiki.

    Thor Heyerdahl – Kon Tiki Museum

    Fram Polar Exploration Ship Museum

    Moving on to the main reason for our visit to the ship museums were went in the amazing Fram Polar Exploration Ship Museum.  The Fram herself is located within one of the buildings along with the Gjøa.  Norway’s proud Polar exploration history is all on display here, from the ships to other artifacts and well laid out displays.  Anyone interested in exploration and what these adventurers went through would love this museum.

    The Fram was able to be boarded and you can wander the decks and interior to get a feel for what it was like on board.

    Polar Exploration Ship The Fram
    Polar Exploration Ship The Fram
    The Fram - Polar Exploration Ship
    The Fram – Polar Exploration Ship
    Gjøa Exploration Ship
    Gjøa Exploration Ship
    Gjøa Exploration Ship
    Gjøa Exploration Ship

    Maritime Museum

    After visiting the Fram Museum, the Maritime Museum seems quite dull.  The displays are all good quality and the museum is well laid out and run, but we did not spend long there and caught the bus back to central Oslo.

    Polar Explorer Statues - Norsk Maritimt Museum Oslo
    Polar Explorer Statues – Norsk Maritimt Museum Oslo

    Vigeland Park

    On our second day, we took a tram out to the Vigeland Park (Vigelandsparken).  It is full of sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, mostly depicting the various stages of human existence.  A very nice park and relaxing to walk around.  Early in the morning, we almost had it to ourselves.

    The Vigeland Park
    The Vigeland Park
    Vigelandsparken Sculpture Park

    Royal Palace

    On the way back into town, we stopped at the Royal Palace and took a few photos of the building itself and of the guards that were wandering around.

    Royal Palace Oslo
    Royal Palace Oslo
    Royal Palace Oslo
    Royal Palace Oslo

    Akershus Fortress

    Walking back we went past the Akershus Fortress and Franklin D Roosevelt Statue.  The statue is only of interest if you’re passing, but the fortress is impressive.  The fortress itself was closed, but you can still wander around the extensive grounds and visit the military museum contained in it.  It has a large collection, of military hardware on display.  Worth a look if you are into your military history.

    Franklin D Rosevelt Statue
    Oslo
    Akershus – Oslo
    Walls of Akershus
    Oslo
    Akershus at Sunset
    M-48 Tank at Akershus

    Opera House

    We called into the Opera House and walked up onto the roof.  You can get some great views of the city from there, but it was very windy.

    Oslo
    Oslo Opera House

    Historical Museum

    The afternoon was spent at the Historical Museum (another tram ride).  There is a nice display of Viking artifacts, which we were interested in seeing.  As a tourist, the rest of the museum was interesting, but not unique, with display from around the world, but really the sort of things any other capital city museum would have.

    Oslo
    Oslo Historical Museum Viking Shield
    Viking Swords at the Oslo Historical Museum

    National Gallery of Norway

    Nearby is the National Gallery of Norway.  Of interest here is The Scream by Edward Munch.  On our way back to the hotel, we stopped to look at the parliament building, but is was obscured by Christmas decorations (a large wooden building – not that we are complaining, the Christmas decorations were very nice).

    Oslo
    Norwegian Parliament

    So what did we think of Oslo?  Apart from the beggars, we loved it.  There was plenty to see and do.  The public transport is efficient and very easy to use.  The people were friendly and helpful.  What more could you want?

  • Norway in a Nutshell Bergen to Oslo

    Norway in a Nutshell Bergen to Oslo

    Norway in a Nutshell Bergen to Oslo

    The first thing to say about the Norway in a Nutshell tour is that we were initially very tentative about taking it.  After reading a lot of on-line reviews we were concerned about over-crowding, missing connections, not getting seating and generally feeling uncomfortable.  Our travel agent made some enquiries for us, and convinced us that taking the tour in the off-season (we travelled in December) would mean that there would be fewer other travelers and no crowding.  We took the chance that she was right and went ahead and booked the Bergen to Oslo option, with an overnight stay in Flåm.  As you will see below, we were very glad we took her advice.

    There are several things to consider before taking this tour.  Firstly, it is not an accompanied tour.  There is no tour guide.  Norway in a Nutshell, book all your tickets.  These tickets are sent to you and you then use them to travel on the trains, bus and boat.  Finding your way around and getting to the next pickup point is your responsibility.  As we found out, this is not difficult.  Secondly, consider the time of year you are travelling and if the crowds other people mention will be a problem for you.

    The tour can be taken several ways.  Bergen to Oslo, Oslo to Bergen, or either of these with a return train trip.  There is also an option to stay overnight at Flåm.

    Our trip started in Bergen.  We walked from the hotel to the train station, for the 8:00AM train trip.  We went to the ticket counter and showed our tickets to the staff, who were very friendly.  They explained which train to get on and which platform it was departing from.  They also told us the connecting bus at our stop was easy to find and people there would help us.  Feeling reassured, we bought a coffee and settled down until the departure time.

    Bergen Railway Station Early Morning
    Bergen Railway Station Early Morning The Start of Norway in a Nutshell

    In December, it was still dark as the train departed, so we did not get to see much scenery until we were almost at Voss.  At this stage, there were lots of snow-covered mountains and snowy scenery to be seen.  If you think this scenery is good, but can’t get a good photo, don’t worry, there is better to come later.

    Views From Bergen Railway
    Views From Bergen Railway

    Arriving in Voss, there is an announcement that this is the departure point for those on the tour.  The train station is quite small.  We gathered our bags, and walked to the front of the station where six or so buses were parked.  Not sure which one to get on, we asked one of the drivers, who pointed us in the right direction.

    The bus trip from Voss to Gudvangen was very scenic.  The drive goes through many windy roads and past lots of very scenic countryside.  At Gudvangen, there is a reasonable stop, with plenty of time for a coffee, snack and toilet break.  There is also a gift shop and some displays to look at as well as some of the scenery you have come to see.  When the boat is ready to depart (we had the Lady Elisabeth), you all get on board and find a seat.  Being winter, most people claimed seats inside where it was warm, and then went out on deck.  In summer, it would probably be very crowded and maybe seating would be at a premium, but for us, we had a private table in a corner by a window.

    The Lady Elisabeth on Nærøyfjord
    The Lady Elisabeth on Nærøyfjord

    For the first hour, it was very busy on deck, with everyone trying to get the best photos.  After this, many headed inside to the warmth.  This was the time to be on deck, as you had an uninterrupted view of the magnificent scenery.  Going down the Nærøyfjord was spectacular.  It lived up to all our expectations.  Snow covered mountains on both sides of us and picturesque villages now and then on the shores.  The Lady Elisabeth called into one of the villages to let someone off and deliver the mail, giving us a close-up view.

    The Nærøyfjord
    The Nærøyfjord
    Village on the Nærøyfjord
    Village on the Nærøyfjord

    Arriving in Flam a bit after 2:00PM. It was already getting dark.  We went to our hotel to check in as we had decided to split the trip up and overnight here.  The Fretheim Hotel is very close to the docks and easily walkable with suitcases.  There were very few guests staying, as most other people on the tour travelled straight though to Oslo.  Once they had gone, we had the area almost to ourselves.  The views of the Aurlandsfjord and surrounding mountains was excellent and we enjoyed an afternoon coffee and a snack at the café.

    Fretheim Hotel Flåm Norway in a Nutshell
    Fretheim Hotel Flåm

    As for Flåm itself, there is not too much to do, but we were there for the scenery and a relaxing break, rather than rushing around. 

    Our rooms at the Fretheim Hotel were somewhat old and in need of a facelift.  The bath/shower was also an accident waiting to happen.  Climbing over the bath into the shower could easily result in a slip, so be careful.  The lobby was very nicely appointed, and the dinner we had, was delicious.  Breakfast was provided as part of the tariff and was plentiful, even though there were not many guests.

    Our train departed at 7:00AM, so it was still dark.  This made the train platform very atmospheric, with the station’s light and surrounding mountains.  The Flåm railway, is famous for its restored train carriages and the rail line itself which wins through the mountains to Myrdal.  The carriages really are very nice and have large windows so you have an excellent view of the scenery.

    Flåm Railway Early Morning Norway in a Nutshell
    Flåm Railway Early Morning
    Flåm Railway Carriage
    Flåm Railway Carriage

    There were no allocated seats, so get on first and get a good seat.  For us this wasn’t a problem, as there very only eight of us getting on at Flåm.  The conductor, suggested which side to sit on for the best view as well, which was nice.

    The views really are great and there are several stops along the way for passengers to get off at other villages.  This time of year, there were people with skis.  There is a longer stop at the water fall about half way through the journey.  This was a great photo stop for the waterfall, as well as the train sitting in the snow near the tunnel.

    Waterfall on the Flåm Railway Norway in a Nutshell
    Waterfall on the Flåm Railway
    Flåm Railway in the Snow
    Flåm Railway in the Snow

    The Flåm railway terminates at Myrdal, where you transfer to the Bergen to Oslo train.  The Myrdal station was unmanned, but there are displays showing train arrivals and departures and which platform to be on.  This station was quite beautiful in the undisturbed snow.  No one else had been there all morning and the snow was pristine.  It probably wouldn’t look so picturesque in summer.

    Myrdal Railway Station in the Snow Norway in a Nutshell
    Myrdal Railway Station in the Snow

    The trip from Myrdal to Oslo was pleasant, but the scenery is not as good as what we had just seen from Gudvangen to Flåm.  The train was clean and comfortable.  Food is available to buy if you want it as well.  The Oslo train station is modern and easy to find you way around.  If you want taxis or buses, they are all available just outside.

    So, what did we think of Norway in a Nutshell?  In a word: brilliant.  It easily met our expectations and the scenery surpassed them.  The ticketing was all in place and worked well.  The accommodation was OK, but we were there for the scenery.  The main Bergen to Oslo train, was nothing special, but got us to where we needed to be for the boat trip down the fjord and the Flåm Railway.

    Would we recommend it?  For the off season when we travelled, certainly.  It wasn’t crowded and the scenery was brilliant.  As for travelling at the height of the tourist season, we can’t say.