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Dangar Island and Brooklyn Ferry

driftwood on a beach Brooklyn Ferry to Dangar Island

Dangar Island

The first European to visit the area was Governor Arthur Phillip, who explored the lower river by small boat in March 1788 within weeks of the First Fleet’s arrival. He named it Mullet Island, for the abundance of fish in the local Hawkesbury River. The island was purchased in 1864 and renamed by Henry Cary Dangar, the son of Henry Dangar, a surveyor, pastoralist and parliamentarian.

Subdivided into residential plots in the 1920s while it still retains some areas for recreational use. Around 330 permanent residents call the island home.

Getting There

Dangar Island can only be accessed by water, either by ferry, private boat or water taxi. We used the ferry, which operates seven days per week. The ferry “Sun” is itself a historic boat, making the trip that little bit more interesting.

The ferry leaves from Brooklyn north of Sydney, where parking is available near the wharf. The Brooklyn train station is only a short walk from the wharf, making this a great option if you don’t want to drive. The ferry arrival and departure times coincide with the train’s timetable.

On the Island

The only vehicles on the island are the fire truck and council ute, with all other vehicles banned. Residents use wheel barrows to haul items from the wharf to their homes. As you leave the ferry, you will see a line up of wheel barrows on the side of the path. On the opposite side is a metal sculpture of a Stegosaurus.

Our first stop was the coffee shop next to the wharf. This also serves as the island’s only shop, because of the small population. Sitting outside was very relaxing, and a great way to start our visit before setting off to explore.

Walking Around

With only around 3km of roads, walking around the island does not take too long. You can download a map, to show various things to see on the island. However, we spent a lot of time at the beach, which had driftwood from recent storms washed up. Also near the beach the rocks are covered in oysters, although most have been removed by fishermen.

One small relic here dates from the Second World War when the Australian Army garrisoned the island and manned a cable boom across the river to protect the railway bridge. A small section of rusted steel embedded in the rocks is all that remains.

We visited at low tide and much of the beach was exposed. The exposed sand was covered in small mounds of sand from crabs that had burrowed down until the tide returned. From the amount of burrows, there must be a huge crab population here.

From the upper road, you get great views of the Hawkesbury and the railway bridge. A rock shelter previously used the local Guringai people before European settlement sits just off the upper road.

Returning to Brooklyn

After around three hours, we returned to the wharf where we had a cold drink while we waited for the ferry. Make sure you don’t miss the last ferry, or you will need to call the water taxi, which is much more expensive.

This was a fun relaxing morning out to somewhere that’s a little different. The locals and the atmosphere of the island is great and we had a great time, well worth a visit.

To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.

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Sea Shepherd’s MV Steve Irwin

Sea Shepherd’s MV Steve Irwin in Newcastle Harbour

Sea Shepherd’s MV Steve Irwin

Although now retired from from its confrontations with Japanese whaling fleets, the MV Steve Irwin still looks impressive with its camouflage and skull painted deck house. Docked at Thales Marine in Newcastle, New South Wales, the ship is now owned by the non-profit organisation Ship4Good. Tours are a great way to learn about the fight to save the whales while contributing to the preservation of the ship.

We met our tour guide at the Thales Security Gate, where we were issued hi-visibility jackets for the walk to the ship. The jackets were necessary because the Thales dock is a working area.

Ship’s History

After a safety briefing our tour started with a talk on the ship’s history. Originally serving 28 years as the Scottish Fisheries Protection Agency conservation enforcement patrol boat, FPV Westra, Sea Shepherd purchased her in 2006. Although originally named the MV Robert Hunter after Canadian Robert Hunter, co-founder of Greenpeace it was renamed the MV Steve Irwin following his death. Steve had been considering joining the vessel the following year before his death.

Over the next 12 years, the ship undertook 17 voyages ranging from anti-whaling and illegal fishing. These occurred in areas as diverse as the Antarctic and Mediterranean. However, she is most famous for confronting the Japanese whaling fleet in the Southern Ocean around Antarctica. These clashes occurred as close range, with activists throwing stink bombs onto Japanese ships and attempting to entangles their propellors. On several occasions, ships rammed each other, a very dangerous action because of the freezing Antarctic waters.

Tour of the Ship

Over the next hour we toured the ship from the bridge to engine room. On the bridge we were able to see where the ship and its operations were directed, with the large windows providing an excellent view of the surrounding area.

In the engine room, the two British Polar 12-cylinder 2,100 bhp Engines with their turbo chargers showed why Sea Shepherd bought this ship. The engines and the ship’s design gave it a speed able to match and overake the Japanese whaling fleet, while being relatively stable in rough seas. Along with the embarked helicopter this enabled them to find and harass the whalers.

Getting Around the Ship

Anyone intending on touring the ship should be aware of several restrictions. Several of the rooms and corridors are small and narrow. So if you are claustrophobic, this may be a problem. Moving from one deck to another is via steep stairways. If you are mobility impaired or have small children this may make getting around difficult. Remember to wear sensible enclosed shoes, because of the stairs and outside surfaces.

We had a great time here learning about the Steve Irwin’s history and seeing the inner workings of the ship.

Maritime Museum of Tasmania

Antarctic Exploration Vessel Nella Dan Maritime Museum of Tasmania

Maritime Museum of Tasmania

If you have an interest in maritime history, then the Maritime Museum of Tasmania is a great place to spend an hour. Located next to the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery and opposite Constitution dock it is easy to get to.

During our visit, the second floor was undergoing renovations, which meant we missed some displays. The remaining area was still interesting as it covered Tasmania’s maritime history.

One of the more interesting displays was a model of the Tasman Bridge disaster. This occurred on 5 January 1975 when a bulk ore carrier collided with bridge pylons, causing a section of the bridge to collapse. Seven crew and five drivers from four cars were killed when they drove off the bridge and fell 45m to the water below. The model shows the SS Lake Illawarra lying on the river bottom with bridge debris covering her.

Tasmania’s contribution to Antarctic exploration has been significant, due to its proximity. A model of the exploration ship Nella Dan commemorates these achievements.

Other displays included interesting figureheads and boats, along with more models ships and photos.