Preserving Port Macquarie’s maritime history, the Mid-North Coast Maritime Museum occupies two old Pilot Cottages dating from the 1890s. Originally used to house the pilot and the boatmen who assisted him but now repurposed into a museum.
Getting There
Located in Port Macquarie on the NSW mid-north coast at 6 William Street, it has beautiful views over the surrounding coast. This would have been vital to the pilot, so that he could see ships arriving before guiding them into the harbour. Parking is available on-street and is free.
The Museum
Spread across the two cottages are nine themed rooms, along with an outdoor display and an additional room with a shell display.
The first exhibits you see are an anchor collection a sea mine and two of the Hello Koala sculptures. Appropriately one of the koalas is decorated as Lachlan Macquarie, for whom the town is named.
The interior exhibits follow the history of Port Macquarie from the arrival of the first colonial settlers and convicts 1821 through to The Second World War.
One room details the loss of the Wollongbar to a Japanese submarine off Port Macquarie and the efforts of local fishermen to save the crew. Thirty-two crew members died, however 6 were saved.
Voyages along the eastern Australian coast proved dangerous with many ships wrecked. Using photos and wall displays all known losses are listed along with some artifacts.
An interesting museum to visit and it’s great to see this sort of history preserved where it provides a link to the past.
The first European to visit the area was Governor Arthur Phillip, who explored the lower river by small boat in March 1788 within weeks of the First Fleet’s arrival. He named it Mullet Island, for the abundance of fish in the local Hawkesbury River. The island was purchased in 1864 and renamed by Henry Cary Dangar, the son of Henry Dangar, a surveyor, pastoralist and parliamentarian.
Subdivided into residential plots in the 1920s while it still retains some areas for recreational use. Around 330 permanent residents call the island home.
Getting There
Dangar Island can only be accessed by water, either by ferry, private boat or water taxi. We used the ferry, which operates seven days per week. The ferry “Sun” is itself a historic boat, making the trip that little bit more interesting.
The ferry leaves from Brooklyn north of Sydney, where parking is available near the wharf. The Brooklyn train station is only a short walk from the wharf, making this a great option if you don’t want to drive. The ferry arrival and departure times coincide with the train’s timetable.
On the Island
The only vehicles on the island are the fire truck and council ute, with all other vehicles banned. Residents use wheel barrows to haul items from the wharf to their homes. As you leave the ferry, you will see a line up of wheel barrows on the side of the path. On the opposite side is a metal sculpture of a Stegosaurus.
Our first stop was the coffee shop next to the wharf. This also serves as the island’s only shop, because of the small population. Sitting outside was very relaxing, and a great way to start our visit before setting off to explore.
Walking Around
With only around 3km of roads, walking around the island does not take too long. You can download a map, to show various things to see on the island. However, we spent a lot of time at the beach, which had driftwood from recent storms washed up. Also near the beach the rocks are covered in oysters, although most have been removed by fishermen.
One small relic here dates from the Second World War when the Australian Army garrisoned the island and manned a cable boom across the river to protect the railway bridge. A small section of rusted steel embedded in the rocks is all that remains.
We visited at low tide and much of the beach was exposed. The exposed sand was covered in small mounds of sand from crabs that had burrowed down until the tide returned. From the amount of burrows, there must be a huge crab population here.
From the upper road, you get great views of the Hawkesbury and the railway bridge. A rock shelter previously used the local Guringai people before European settlement sits just off the upper road.
Returning to Brooklyn
After around three hours, we returned to the wharf where we had a cold drink while we waited for the ferry. Make sure you don’t miss the last ferry, or you will need to call the water taxi, which is much more expensive.
This was a fun relaxing morning out to somewhere that’s a little different. The locals and the atmosphere of the island is great and we had a great time, well worth a visit.
Historic Ferry the SunFishing boats tied up at BrooklynHouses and private jetties on Dangar IslandBikes left at the ferry wharfMetal stegosaurustypical Dangar Island roadThe Pavilion and Beware of the Rabbit signFence made of old surf boardsdriftwood on a beachOne of Dangar Island’s beachesPrivate jetties at low tideRusting remains of the barrage from World War TwoCrab metropolis. The piles of sand are from crab burrowsRocks and trees on a beachThe CaveHawkesbury River Railway BridgeCold Bundaberg Ginger Beer
To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.
Although now retired from from its confrontations with Japanese whaling fleets, the MV Steve Irwin still looks impressive with its camouflage and skull painted deck house. Docked at Thales Marine in Newcastle, New South Wales, the ship is now owned by the non-profit organisation Ship4Good. Tours are a great way to learn about the fight to save the whales while contributing to the preservation of the ship.
We met our tour guide at the Thales Security Gate, where we were issued hi-visibility jackets for the walk to the ship. The jackets were necessary because the Thales dock is a working area.
Ship’s History
After a safety briefing our tour started with a talk on the ship’s history. Originally serving 28 years as the Scottish Fisheries Protection Agency conservation enforcement patrol boat, FPV Westra, Sea Shepherd purchased her in 2006. Although originally named the MV Robert Hunter after Canadian Robert Hunter, co-founder of Greenpeace it was renamed the MV Steve Irwin following his death. Steve had been considering joining the vessel the following year before his death.
Over the next 12 years, the ship undertook 17 voyages ranging from anti-whaling and illegal fishing. These occurred in areas as diverse as the Antarctic and Mediterranean. However, she is most famous for confronting the Japanese whaling fleet in the Southern Ocean around Antarctica. These clashes occurred as close range, with activists throwing stink bombs onto Japanese ships and attempting to entangles their propellors. On several occasions, ships rammed each other, a very dangerous action because of the freezing Antarctic waters.
Tour of the Ship
Over the next hour we toured the ship from the bridge to engine room. On the bridge we were able to see where the ship and its operations were directed, with the large windows providing an excellent view of the surrounding area.
In the engine room, the two British Polar 12-cylinder 2,100 bhp Engines with their turbo chargers showed why Sea Shepherd bought this ship. The engines and the ship’s design gave it a speed able to match and overake the Japanese whaling fleet, while being relatively stable in rough seas. Along with the embarked helicopter this enabled them to find and harass the whalers.
Getting Around the Ship
Anyone intending on touring the ship should be aware of several restrictions. Several of the rooms and corridors are small and narrow. So if you are claustrophobic, this may be a problem. Moving from one deck to another is via steep stairways. If you are mobility impaired or have small children this may make getting around difficult. Remember to wear sensible enclosed shoes, because of the stairs and outside surfaces.
We had a great time here learning about the Steve Irwin’s history and seeing the inner workings of the ship.
Sea Shepherd’s MV Steve Irwin in Newcastle HarbourGangway onto MV Steve IrwinCovered walkway around the shipSome of the cruises the ship participated inSome of the cruises the ship participated inThrowing stink bombs at the Japanese whaling shipsDramatic painting of the ship at seaThe two 12-cylinder 1,600 kW enginesThe Steve Irwin’s propellor shaftThe BridgeThe Bridge