Tag: Italy

  • Rome

    Rome

    How Did We Get To Rome?

    Our stop before Rome was Pisa.  The hotel in Pisa was walking distance from the train station, so we decided that would be the easiest way to travel.  We purchased our tickets in Australia online before we left but could easily have been bought that morning at the station.  We preferred to pre-purchase to ensure we could get on board. The first train left very early, and was not very busy, so we relaxed and enjoyed the views of Italy as they passed by.

    The train makes a few stops before reaching Rome, and it became crowded, with many of the later passengers standing for the journey. When we arrived in Rome, we caught a taxi to our hotel because it was too far to walk.  The taxi rank is right outside the main entrance making it easy to find.

    Where did we stay?

    Nearly all the attractions in Rome are close together (even the Vatican City was only a 40-minute walk), so we stayed centrally and walked everywhere.  The hotel we chose was Hotel Mancino 12.  The concierge stored our bags and as it was early, offered a complimentary breakfast from the buffet.  Very nice! 

    When we returned later in the day, our room was ready, and we were very happy with it.  At night it was quiet, so we slept well.  The only concern with the room was water pressure in the shower, which is not really that important, just meant showers took a little longer.

    Breakfast at the buffet was plentiful and we appreciated the all-day coffee available in the foyer.  We made use of this on numerous occasions.

    Getting Around

    Apart from two-day trips out of Rome we walked everywhere because everything was so close to our hotel.  These walks were planned so that we would see things on the way to and from the furthest attraction.  In Rome it seemed like there was an ancient ruin around every corner, if not a church or museum you hadn’t seen.

    Finding a place to eat was not a problem.  If anything, there was too much choice.  We took the advice of previous travellers, and found restaurants off the main streets, as they were not so crowded, had better prices and the food was excellent.

    Crossing roads can be a little daunting when you first arrive.  There are numerous pedestrian crossings, but the cars never seem to stop for them.  If you just stand at the side of the road, the cars will keep going.  Simply make sure there is room for the car to stop, walk out and it will stop.

    Rome Walk
    Rome Walk

    What did we do?

    We tried to see as much as possible in the time we had.  Many sites are on public display and easy to find, although they can become very crowded with tourists as we discovered.  For the Roman Forum and Colosseum, we organised a guided tour, so that an expert could explain the importance of the sites. This proved to be a great choice as the guides proved to be very knowledgeable and enthusiastic.

    Forum / Palatine Hill

    Colosseum

    Trevi Fountain

    Pantheon

    Catacombs of Rome

    Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars

    Fontana del Tritone in Piazza Barberini

    Piazza Navona

    Sant’Agnese in Agone

    Spanish Steps

    Marcus Aurelius Column

    Altar of the Fatherland

    Capitoline Museums

    Walking in Rome

    What Did We Think?

    Forum / Palatine Hill

    We met our guide for the Forum at the Colosseum Metro station.  She was a young archaeologist and her enthusiasm for the topic was amazing.  We spent several hours walking around the area learning about its ruins and what they were all used for.  It was also interesting to discover that many old Roman buildings were re-purposed later for other uses.  Many old temples exist today only because they were turned into churches.

    The area covered by the Forum is huge and we walked briskly to cover as much as we could.  From the entrance (we were first in for the morning!), we saw the Forum, Septimius Severus Arch and the Temple of Vesta.  Near this is Basilica di Santa Francesca Romana originally a Roman temple dedicated to Valerius Romulus.

    The tour took us up to Palatino Hill, with its great views over Rome and then on to the Palatine Stadium.  Between each of these major points of interest were numerous other quick stops to see and have explained.  With an expert guide, the ruins were brought back to life and we could easily have spent the whole day there.

    Unfortunately, it had to come to an end, which it did near the Arch of Constantine next to the Colosseum.

    Remember to visit after dark as well. because the views from outside are great and many of the monuments are lit, giving a beautiful look to the ruins.

    The Forum From Palatine Hill
    The Forum From Palatine Hill
    Trajan's Column
    Trajan’s Column
    Arch of Titus
    Arch of Titus
    Arch of Constantine
    Arch of Constantine
    The Forum From the Capitoline Museum
    The Forum From the Capitoline Museum

    Colosseum

    The guided tour of the Colosseum was a continuation of the tour of the Forum.  The group was larger at around 20 people, but the guide was equally well-informed.  The Colosseum was very busy when our tour started, and the public access areas were packed.  This tour however, took us to three places that you must go with a guide to visit.

    Our fist stop was the arena floor which allows you to walk out to where the gladiators fought and look up into the stands.  You also get a great view down to the lower level of the Colosseum where the animals and gladiators were kept.

    The second stop was the lower levels where the workings of the Colosseum were explained, such as how people and animals accessed the arena.  There is also a replica of the lift used to move from the lower levels to the arena floor.

    The final guided section was the upper levels.  This is the highest you can you and you are rewarded with a fantastic view of the interior of the Colosseum.

    We were then free to walk around the rest of the monument at our leisure, but the highlight was certainly the guided tour.

    To get a different perspective, we visited at night.  The whole outside structure is lit up and looks magnificent.  On our way there, we stopped for a look at the Forum at night as well.

    The Colosseum Interior From the Upper Levels
    The Colosseum Interior From the Upper Levels
    The Colosseum From the Arena Floor
    The Colosseum From the Arena Floor
    Beneath the Colosseum
    Beneath the Colosseum

    Trevi Fountain

    As all the reviews say, it’s crowded.  We had to wait ages to get to the front.  You can get photos from the sides a little easier, but views are not as good.  To avoid this, we came back a second time at 5:30AM.  They were still a lot of people there but nowhere near as many.

    Remember you are not allowed to sit on the edge of the fountain.  There are guards around that will tell you off and blow a whistle to make you move.  Despite this, it is amazing how many people sat down.

    This is one of the places infested with people trying to sell you things you don’t need.  They degrade the whole look and atmosphere of Rome.  We avoided them where possible, but they can get a bit pushy and in your face.  This was especially the case with flower sellers.  They present you with a flower, as if it’s a gift.  When you accept it, they demand payment.

    Trevi Fountain
    Trevi Fountain

    Pantheon

    Now a church dedicated to St. Mary and the Martyrs, the Pantheon was originally a Roman temple.  It’s excellent state of preservation is due to its re-purposing as a church and its continual usage since Roman times.

    It looks spectacular from outside with its columns and inside is even better.  The domed ceiling is magnificent.  The first king of a united Italy Victor Emmanuel II is buried there as is his successor Umberto I.

    The Pantheon
    The Pantheon
    The Pantheon Dome Interior
    The Pantheon Dome Interior

    Catacombs of Rome

    One of only two bus trips we organised, because of the distance to travel, we found this experience extremely underwhelming.  The tour took us to the Domitilla catacombs, which were originally a Roman stone quarry.  Early Christians used them and there are some frescoes and early Christian symbols.  The alcoves where bodies were buried can be seen but no bodies are left.  After visiting the Paris catacombs, this was very disappointing because most of the time was spent walking down empty tunnels.  The guide made it worse by dumbing everything down and talking to us as if we hadn’t left high school. 

    Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars

    This was part of the catacombs tour, but really, we could (and should) have done it ourselves.  It is easily reachable as it is in the centre of Rome. 

    The Crypt consists of a series of rooms off a corridor.  You walk down the corridor and stare at the creepy bone decorated rooms and move on.  No photos are allowed. The monks are not allowed to repair the “displays”, so it is in a general state of disrepair.

    Worth the 15 minutes to say you have been there, but nothing more.

    Fontana del Tritone in Piazza Barberini

    One of many fountains located throughout Rome.  This one is dedicated to Triton.  A very nice fountain and worth looking at if you are passing through the Piazza Barberini, where it is located.

    Piazza Navona

    The Piazza Navona contains three fountains.  The most famous is the Fountain of the Four Rivers which is, topped by the Obelisk of Domitian.  The other two smaller fountains are the Fountain of Neptune and the Fontana del Moro.  All three are great to relax around.

    Fountain of the Four Rivers
    Fountain of the Four Rivers
    Fountain of the Four Rivers
    Statues of the Four Rivers Fountain
    Fountain of Neptune
    Fountain of Neptune

    Sant’Agnese in Agone

    Just off the Piazza Barberini is the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone.  We spent some time in here admiring the artwork, sculptures and architecture of the building. There is also a shrine for Saint Agnes, containing her skull. Saint Agnes was an early Christian Saint Agnes who was martyred in the ancient Stadium of Domitian.

    Spanish Steps

    The Spanish Steps are another favorite spot for tourists to visit.  When we were there it was very crowded and full of people trying to sell us flowers, selfie sticks and other must have items.  The steps themselves are quite beautiful but trying to get a picture is difficult.  We climbed to the top and looked down, which gave a great view and a different perspective of the steps.

    At the top is the church of the Santissima TrinitĂ  dei Monti which contains some amazing artwork and it worth a visit.  Women are requested to cover their heads and shoulders before entering the church.

    The Spanish Steps
    The Spanish Steps
    Santissima TrinitĂ  dei Monti
    Santissima TrinitĂ  dei Monti

    The Column of Marcus Aurelius

    Marcus Aurelius Column
    Marcus Aurelius Column

    The Column of Marcus Aurelius is in front of the Palazzo Chigi, the official residence of the Italian Prime Minister.  At nearly 30 metres high, it’s hard to miss.  This column is modelled on the more famous Trajan’s Column.  A statue of St Paul has replaced the statue of Marcus Aurelius.

    Altar of the Fatherland

    The Altar of the Fatherland (Altare della Patria) is a huge monument in the centre of Rome dedicated to Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy.  This huge building is located near Capitoline Hill and is visible from much of the city.

    There is a statue of Victor Emmanuel on a horse at the front as well as two statues of the goddess Victory riding in horse-drawn chariots.

    Also housed here are the remains of the unknown soldier.  From the upper section of the building there are great views over the city.  There is a lift to the roof for what must be a spectacular view, but it was closed for repairs while we were there.

    A great place to visit, learn about the Italian Unification and pay respects to the fallen soldiers.

    Altar of the Fatherland
    Altar of the Fatherland
    Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
    Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

    Capitoline Museums

    The Capitoline Museums are a must see when visiting Rome.  They hold the best collection of Roman artefacts in the world that anyone remotely interested in history would want to see. The collection is huge, so unless you plan to spend several days there, it is a good idea to pick specific items you want to see.

    If you do decide to look at everything, you might soon get tired of all the sculpture heads that fill numerous rooms, and the amazing number of statues.  We went through these rooms, but to make sure we remained interested, the visits were brief.  We sought out the She Wolf with Romulus and Remus, Venus, The Dying Gaul and Cupid and Psyche.

    Some other items that should not be missed are the Colossus of Constantine and the bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.

    No bags are allowed inside, but self-serve lockers are provided so you can safely store your bags.

    The She Wolf with Romulus and Remus
    The She Wolf with Romulus and Remus
    Capitoline Museum
    Capitoline Museum
    Venus
    Venus
    Bacchus
    Bacchus
    Colossus of Constantine
    Colossus of Constantine

    Walking in Rome

    One of the great things about walking in Rome was the discovery of unexpected places and small side streets.  Almost every turn brought us to something new and unexpected.  We found the Marcus Aurelius Column this way, because it just happened to be on the route we had chosen.

    Crossing roads can be a little daunting when you first arrive.  There are numerous pedestrian crossings, but the cars never seem to stop for them.  If you just stand at the side of the road, the cars will keep going, however simply make sure there is room for the car to stop, walk out and it will stop.

    What Did We Think?

    We loved Rome, from the hotel to the history and the monuments.  The only issue we had were the swarms of people trying to sell things to tourists.  This made us feel uneasy a few times, but generally, the number of other people made us feel safe.  We went out each night for a meal (the food in Rome is excellent) and never felt unsafe.  We did however have all our things in backpacks that were lockable and pick-pocket proof.

  • Pisa

    Pisa

    Getting There

    We caught a train from Venice to Pisa, with a change in Florence. Departing at 7:30, we arrived in Pisa at 11:00AM.  A quick walk to our Hotel ( Hotel Bologna) to drop off our bags and we walked to the Main Street to get some lunch. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from. We decided on a simple snack and a drink before walking to the piazza where all of the monuments are located.

    Pisa Time
    Pisa Time

    Pisa Walk
    Pisa Walk

    The walk was easy, but we felt uncomfortable due to the large number of males in their twenties, either trying to sell sunglasses, water, selfie sticks and other low quality junk, or hassling tourists.

    What We Saw in Pisa

    After running the gauntlet of hawkers, we arrived to find a huge crush of tourists. We had expected this, but were still amazed at the number of people there.  We walked around the Leaning Tower taking pictures and then went to the ticket office.  You must go here to get tickets for all of the monuments.

    The Leaning Tower of Pisa
    The Leaning Tower of Pisa

    The wait for the Tower was over three hours, so we decided not to climb to the top. First stop after getting our tickets, was the Baptistery of St. John  (Battistero).  A great looking building, particularly on the outside.  The interior is somewhat Spartan.  Take the stairs to the upper level.  This allows you to look down onto the baptismal font.  There is also a great view out one of the windows to the Cathedral.  The view is a little different to that from the ground.

    Baptistery of St John in Pisa
    Baptistery of St John in Pisa

    Interior of Baptistery of St John in Pisa
    Interior of Baptistery of St John in Pisa

    Font in the Baptistery of St John in Pisa
    Font in the Baptistery of St John in Pisa

    The Pisa Cathedral is on of the three attractions in the Plaza of Miracles.  Spectacular on the outside, it is grander on the inside.  The painting are fantastic, along with the alter, which is spectacular.  We spent a lot of time wandering around inside admiring the artworks.

    Pisa Cathedral
    Pisa Cathedral

    Pisa Cathedral Interior
    Pisa Cathedral Interior

    The Plaza, still has the old city walls running down one side.  These are worth a look, as many old Italian cities no longer have them.

    Pisa City Walls
    Pisa City Walls

    On our way back to the hotel, we walked along the River Arno, enabling us to see a little more of Pisa.

    Pisa From the River Arno
    Pisa From the River Arno

    Eating Out

    We found plenty of options for food.  Near our hotel was a selection of Italian restaurants.  We chose one at random and had a great meal with some local beers, followed by gelato, for dessert.

    What Did We Think?

    The Hotel Bologna was clean, quiet and comfortable.  There was air-conditioning which worked perfectly and we had a great night’s sleep.  Centrally located, we were very happy with it.

    As expected, Pisa was very crowded with tourists.  What we didn’t expect was the hordes of hawkers and others, who made us feel extremely uncomfortable.  On our walk back to the train station the next morning, we were followed by a group of men, and we went into an open cafĂ© until they went away.

    Had we known how little time we would spend, a better option would have been to leave our luggage at the train station in a locker.  We could have then travelled on to Rome the same day.

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