Located near Balmain Ferry Wharf, the easiest way to get to Ballast Point Park, is ferry. When you arrive, check out the old ferry wharf building, which is now a community library. Originally a fuel storage area, Ballast Point is now a beautifully rehabilitated public space on Sydney Harbour. Intended for sale to developers but saved by a community action group, which resulted in its current use as a public park.
Balmain Ferry Wharf
Mort’s Dock
Walking from the ferry to the park, we walked past a memorial to one of Sydney’s ship building docks. Now filled in, Mort’s Dock was the first dry dock in Australia, operating from 1855 until its closure in 1959. Between 1940 and 1945, Mort’s Dock constructed fourteen of the sixty Bathurst-class corvettes built in Australia during the war, as well as four of the twelve River-class frigates. The memorial commemorates their construction and service in the Royal Australian Navy.
Mort’s Dock
Mort’s Dock Plaque
View of Mort Bay
Sandstone Wall on Mort Bay
Ballast Point Park
Deriving its name from colonial times, when ships returning to England empty would source ballast here, Ballast Point Park is now a beautiful park overlooking Sydney Harbour. Previous owned by Texaco, it was planned to develop the area for housing, but a local action group convinced the State Government to retain it for public use.
The site required decontamination because of its industrial past. Retaining walls in the park re-used rubble from the demolished buildings. Several old fuel tanks remain, as a reminder of the area’s past use, along with information boards describing the fuel depot. Scattered throughout the park, shade structures, provide great places to sit and relax, while admiring the views over the harbour.
We enjoyed walking around here, especially the old tanks and the conversion of tank 101 into a huge piece of artwork.
View of Sydney Harbour From Ballast Point
Tank 101 which symbolises the site’s working harbour history
HMS M1 was a submarine of the British Royal Navy, one of four vessels of her class ordered towards the end of the First World War. She sank with the loss of her entire crew in 1925.
The vessels were originally intended as “submarine monitors”, but their purpose had been changed before detailed design began. M1 was fitted with a 12-inch (305mm) gun which was intended for use against surface ships in preference to torpedoes, the argument being that, “No case is known of a ship-of-war being torpedoed when under way at a range outside of 1000 yards”.
Although the gun had an effective range of 15,000 yards (14 km), it was normally fired using a simple bead sight at periscope depth with only the barrel above the water. It was important for the submarine’s gun to sink or disable the target with the first shot, because the gun could only be loaded on the surface.
She was launched on 9 July 1917, but was not involved in active service in the First World War.
In 1923, water leaking into the barrel of the gun resulted in extensive damage to the muzzle when it was fired. She sank with all 69 hands on 12 November 1925 while on an exercise in the English Channel. A Swedish ship, SS Vidar, struck the submerged M1 and sank her in 70 m of water. The collision tore the gun from the hull and water flooded the interior through the open loading hole. The crew members appear to have tried to escape by flooding the interior and opening the escape hatch, but their bodies were never found.
HMS M1HMS M1HMS M1HMS M1HMS M1HMS M1HMS M1 Firing her 12″ GunHMS M1 Gun Explodes After a Leak Allowed Water into the Gun BarrelHMS M1 1925HMS M1HMS M1 in IstanbulHMS M1 in ConstantinopleOfficers in the wardroom of HMS M1. On the table is a silver cock the mascot of Commander Max Horton
Operated by Sydney Harbour Trust, North Head is an ex-army heritage listed site. Staffed by volunteers, the Visitor Centre is an ideal point to start your exploration of the area as they can provide you with an overview of what’s available. Our visit on a Sunday corresponded to the day that a guided tour was running for the site and underground tunnels. For a small fee a guide shows groups around while explaining the importance of each area. Importantly this is the only way to gain access to the tunnels which form a major part of the site.
Getting to North Head
Public Transport
Ferries to Manly run from Circular Quay, taking around 30 minutes for the trip. Alternately, the Manly Fast Ferry takes 20 minutes, but is more expensive. There is a Fast Ferry service to Q Station Wharf, if you want to start here instead of Manly.
From the Manly Ferry Wharf, bus 135 takes 20 minutes to drive to North Head. This bus runs every hour and connects well with the ferry arriving and departing Manly. Located outside the main entrance, bus stops are easy to find.
Walking
Taking 40 minutes, the shortest walk winds through Manly’s streets, past Q Station and onto North Head. A more scenic track runs along the shore, taking you past fantastic clifftop lookouts and historical gun emplacements, before passing Shelly Beach and ending at Manly Beach. At 4.2 km long, the scenic track takes around an hour one way, but has wonderful scenery to enjoy along the way.
Starting at Q Station, a 1.3 km track passes through bush land, passes the Third Quarantine Cemetery before ending at the North Head Sanctuary Visitors’ Centre. This well paved track is an easy 20-minute walk, with great views over Sydney Harbour.
Headstones in the third Quarantine CemeteryHeadstones in the third Quarantine Cemetery
Driving
Located outside the Visitor Centre is a pay for use car park, which makes driving yourself a convenient option
North Fort Tour
Starting with a short film on Sydney’s history of fortifications which was informative and gave us an insight into their original appearance.
View of South Head From North HeadView of Sydney From North Head
Memorial Walk
The walking tour started with the Memorial Walk which is a paved pathway winding through Australian bush land. Many of the paving stones have been inscribed with the names of servicemen which gives a personal touch to the area.
Progressing along the path takes you to all the memorials for wars Australia has been involved in. Each of the memorials is made of Sydney sandstone and engraved with an overview of the conflict. The Gallipoli Memorial contains the only non-native species in the area, a cutting from the lone pine.
Memorial WalkWorld War 1 MemorialLone Pine Gallipoli Memorial
Fortifications
Continuing to the above ground fortifications we saw the remains of gun emplacements which now consist of concrete structures without any guns. The only remaining gun is a 9.2 inch (23.37 cm) barrel which is on display next to the forts.
9.2 Inch Gun
Underground Tunnels
The highlight of the tour was the underground tunnels. These consist of the rooms and the tunnels needed to service the guns and protect the military personnel manning the forts. Our guide took us through each room, explaining their function and how each was operating when the fort was working.
In the magazine, dummy shells give an idea of the size of the projectiles used and a rack has them set up to show how it would have looked. Even the old diesel generators are in place, giving an idea of the power needed to run the fort.
Well lit with well maintained walkways, the tunnels were easy to walk through with some good photographic opportunities. Stairs in several areas are steep, but not very long, so should not be a problem for most people. Unfortunately, people with mobility issues will not be able to take the underground tour.
Dummy Shells in the MagazineUnderground Diesel Generator in the North Head TunnelsThe TunnelsNorth Head Tunnels
Food and Drinks
At the end of the tour, you can also walk down to the restaurant for food and beverages.
What Did We Think
North Head is a great place to visit, as it covers, Sydney’s history, with fantastic views and bush walks. Being easy to get to either by public transport or car makes it a great day out.
To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.
